Biking the Tow Path and Great Allegheny Passage

In June 2014, two years into retirement, I took the leap and committed to an unsupported solo Washington, D.C. - Pittsburgh bike trip.  The 334 mile trip covered the 184.5 miles of the tow path from Georgetown in Washington, D.C. to Cumberland, Maryland, and then the 150 miles of the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) from Cumberland to Pittsburgh. There is excellent information on planning a ride or hike via the tow path and GAP. I found these sites very helpful: C&O Canal, C&O Canal Bicycling Guide, and the Great Allegheny Passage.  

  
LOGISTICS

Once you have made it to the Washington, D.C. area, the best way to get to the start of the C&O Canal and the towpath is by Metro.  Bikes are allowed on Metro all day Saturday and Sunday, and on weekdays in the non-peak hours.  From the Foggy Bottom stop on the blue line it's a half mile downhill ride to Thompson Boat Center. Mile marker zero for the C&O Canal is behind Thompson Boat Center. There are feasible options to get back to D.C. from Pittsburgh.  The Amtrak Capitol Limited still does not allow bikes in passenger cars, but they do take boxed bikes in the baggage car.  My plan was to purchase a bike box at the Pittsburgh Amtrak station and take the 5 a.m. Capitol Limited back to Washington.  That didn't pan out because illness delayed me, so I cancelled my reservation while in Cumberland. I was able to bum a ride back from Pittsburgh to D.C. with some other bikers.  I spent my last night in Pittsburgh at the train station as there were no nearby camp grounds, and every room seemed to be booked due to the July 4 holiday, a regatta, and a big convention in town.

DAY 1 - Georgetown to Swains Lock



Packed and ready to go at C&O Canal mile marker zero

From the Canal's zero mile marker (above) it's only about a quarter mile or so to the start of the C&O Canal towpath (below) and my first rest stop, I mean photo-op.  Only 334  miles to go.

The start of the towpath.  On to Pittsburgh!

My  7 a.m. start slipped to 10, and my side-trip into Georgetown to look for a new cell phone battery turned into lunch.  Returning to the start of the trail I talked to a couple from Sweden starting their bike trip to Pittsburgh (they flew their bikes over!) and another couple just completing their trip from Pittsburgh to D.C.  To make a long story short, I did more talking than riding, and completed only 17 miles. I camped at Swain's Lock, just a few miles from my house!  There are really no conveniently located restaurants/grocery stores between Georgetown (Washington D.C.) and Harper's Ferry. Be prepared to either camp and eat what you carry, or to bike several miles to a town.  Great Falls (mile 14) does have a snack bar with limited hours.  Also, please note that the cafe at White's Ferry (mile 35.5) is now closed for business (as of June, 2014).

DAY 2 - Swains Lock to Harpers Ferry

Got up early to find that squirrels had eaten away at some of the no see-um mesh on my brand new tent.  Probably trying to get at food. A makeshift patch of electrical tape (I have no idea why I even packed such a thing) proved effective for the remainder of the trip. The Swedish couple had also camped at Swain's Lock so we had breakfast together, sharing our provisions.  The towpath in the westerly DC-Cumberland direction is ever so slightly uphill and fairly well maintained.  I had hoped to average 60 miles per day, but the load weight, late starts, and the power source (my legs) conspired to keep it to about 40 miles per day.

All smiles to be in Harpers Ferry (mile 59).

On Day 2 I covered about 45 miles to get to Harpers Ferry National Historic Park.  A fellow biker without a pump asked for assistance and was delighted when I pulled out my CO2 cartridge. He was on his way in less than a minute.  Fortunately, I experienced no mechanical problems throughout the entire trip.  After enjoying the scenery from the bridge I made my way to the Econo Lodge on Union Street. They have free internet and breakfast, and a reasonably priced washer and dryer on the premises.  If you stay in Harpers Ferry be prepared to get your bike and stuff up a spiral metal stair-case that leads to the bridge linking the town to the towpath.  Despite this inconvenience, Harpers Ferry is definitely worth a stop. This is probably one of the closest places to the towpath where you will find food and in-door lodging.  And you will be in the company of great Americans like Washington, Jefferson, and Meriwether Lewis (of Lewis and Clark) who also gazed on the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers.

DAY 3 - Harpers Ferry to Williamsport

Another late start as I took time to mail some weighty items like extra tools, a book, some food, and excess clothing back home.  It really is good advice to pack, then cut it in half.  I covered 40 miles and made it to Williamsport (mile 99). The scenery becomes quite varied with the canal grown over in places and even maintained as well-kept lawn for a stretch. Later it disappears all together, as ye olde barges instead floated into the Big Slackwater (below) at lock 41.  I had hoped to camp in Williamsport but the only two campgrounds I knew of  turned out to be private and pricey (for pitching a tent).  I ended up staying at an inexpensive motel for a few dollars less than the cost of the private campgrounds!

Big Slackwater pavement is nice riding, but there's no shade

Day 4 - Williamsport to Indigo Neck (Little Orleans)

I left Williamsport around mid-morning with a stop planned for Hancock. I had originally planned to spend a night in Hancock (mile 124), but I was falling further and further behind my original schedule, so I only had lunch there instead. I had read about Weaver's Restaurant and Bakery on other biker blogs and I was not disappointed.  Good food, good portions, and good prices.  C&O Bicycle is a noted bike shop in Hancock, and easy to find right along the trail. You can pick up some free trail maps, and even get shelter and a shower in the Bike shop's bunkhouse at a bargain price. I continued on to mile 139 and Indigo Neck Campground , a typical "primitive" campsite along the towpath. The cost was only $10 to pitch a tent.

Near Williamsport the canal takes on eerie, almost fairy-tale mystique.

DAY 5 - Indigo Neck (Little Orleans) to Cumberland

I broke camp early and hit the trail, excited at the prospect of completing the tow path.  One of the highlights of the tow path is the Paw Paw Tunnel at mile 156.

The Paw Paw Tunnel (3,118 feet long)

The Paw Paw Tunnel is unlit so its advisable to have a light and to walk the bike through.  The canal runs through the tunnel alongside the path.  The cool air was a relief on a hot day after miles of cycling.  Refreshing water-drops from above tempted me to stay a few more minutes before moving on.

Half-way through the Paw-Paw Tunnel

I covered about 60 miles.  Unfortunately, part of that mileage was backtracking 7 miles to look for a bike bag that had fallen off. Another cyclist told me he had seen it on the trail near Oldtown (where I had lunch by lock 70) so I went back and eventually found it.  The temperature was well over 90 degrees that day and in retrospect I was probably dehydrated.  I drank water from the towpath water-pumps when my bottles ran out, and even doused my head under the pumps. When I arrived in Cumberland I ditched my plan to stay at the YMCA campground and stayed at a motel where I was violently ill for several hours until I fell asleep. 

Mile 184.5 in Cumberland, and the end of the towpath.

DAY 6 - Cumberland to Frostburg

I slept most of the morning to recoup from the evening's illness and got started on the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) Trail around 2 p.m. 

A short way to the start of the 150 mile Great Allegheny Passage in Cumberland

 The Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) trail runs parallel to the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad from Cumberland to Frostburg.

Western Maryland Scenic Railroad

It was with some trepidation that I began the day's ride, but I felt better as the miles went by and I made it to Frostburg without getting sick. Frostburg is very hilly but there is a switchback trail that leads to town. I camped at the Trail Inn Bed and Breakfast, Campground & Cafe.  The campground offers inexpensive amenities like good, clean showers as well as a washer and dryer.  
There are a few nearby restaurants an easy walk from the campground. I ate at Giannis which boasts 25 flavors of chicken wings.

DAY 7 - Frostburg to Ohiopyle

I slept well in the cool night air and had a hardy breakfast at the Trail Inn's cafe.  Today I looked forward to three key landmarks.  First, the Mason-Dixon line marking the border between Maryland and Pennsylvania, and the traditional dividing line between north and south.  

Mason-Dixon Line

Next was the Big Savage Tunnel (3,294 feet), the longest on the trail. 

Big Savage Tunnel

And third, the most welcome sight of all, The Eastern Continental Divide.  The Eastern Continental Divide is the highest point on the trail at 2,392 feet.  This is a popular photo-op for cyclists, and a place for a well deserved rest.  The remainder of the trail in either direction is mostly downhill.

Eastern Continental Divide

I am here!

Confluence (below) is a scenic town with several bed and breakfast establishments.  I opted to continue another 12 miles to reach Ohiopyle.  Ohiopyle has motels and restaurants, and a few miles outside the town is the Ohiopyle Campground where I stayed.  Be forewarned that the campground is about a half mile up a very steep and rough trail.  The posted quarter mile sign at the bottom is just plain wrong.

Confluence, a scenic trail town near Ohiopyle

DAY 8   Ohiopyle to West Newton

The day started off well enough.  It was easy riding on the trail alongside the Youghiogheny River.  I had little or no breakfast and made it to Connelsville.  I was feeling nauseous after lunch (the heat?) and rested in a local restaurant for over three hours before hitting the trail again.

Connelsville

Yough (Youghiogheny) Campground

At West Newton I camped at the Yough Canoe Outfitters and Campground.  They have a shower and a covered pavillion with picnic benches and electrical outlets. In the town of West Newton, I ate at the Trailside Restaurant.  If you like fish and chips try the Big Fish on a Dish.  The Trailside Restaurant has a good menu, televisions, and is open seven days a week.  It was a great place to unwind before camping for the night.


DAY 9 - West Newton to Pittsburgh

The last day was was great.  I awoke, took a shower at the Yough campground, had some crackers for breakfast, broke camp and headed out on the trail.  I only had 36 miles to Pittsburgh and the end of my sojourn, so I savored every mile.  Since I'm originally from Boston, Massachusetts, I had to stop at Boston, PA on the trail.  I'm glad I did because it led to an impromptu lunch at the Boston Shoppes restaurant.  This is a truly charming restaurant with a three-floor gift shop and a small pastry case.  The restaurant doubles as a cozy tea room.  I had a delicious sandwich and bowl of soup for $8.00. After getting an ice cream cone across the street I headed back out on the trail.

The Boston Shoppes restaurant.  My favorite lunch stop

On the outskirts of Pittsburgh I stopped to walk around the site of the Homestead Strike of July 6, 1892.  After a bloody confrontation between strikers and Pinkerton agents employed by the Carnegie Steel Co., 8,000 state militia arrived on July 12 to break the strike and kept the town under virtual martial law for three months. 

Embankment where citizens repulsed Pinkerton Agents attempting to disembark

I loved seeing Pittsburgh on the horizon.  I had never been to to the steel city.  Its definitely a Steeler town through and through.

Pittsburgh at last!

 I arrived on the Fourth of July. Point State Park was jam-packed with crowds gathering for food, entertainment, and the evening's fireworks.  It was all quite exciting.  I made my way to the fountain and the Ohio River, formed by the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers.  Before turning away and putting the trip in the books, I commemorated the end of the ride by anointing my bike with water from the Ohio River.




End of the trail at Point State Park fountain. Ohio River in the background.

Certificate of Accomplishment